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Studio Underd0g released a new generation of its 02Series field watch on 7 July. Bvlgari expanded its Bvlgari Bvlgari collection with two new timepieces featuring Roman mosaic-inspired dials. Anoma unveiled a new take on its A1 case, worked entirely by hand and named the A1 Prehistoric. The Windup Watch Fair opened in Chicago on the 10th, running through the 12th, putting the spotlight on independents the same week these three landed.
Studio Underd0g built its name on watches that don’t take themselves too seriously. Founder Richard Benc launched the original 02Series in 2023, drawing on the Dirty Dozen field watches issued to British troops during the Second World War. The second generation grows the case from 37mm to 37.5mm. Although the case diameter has increased marginally, the watch is now 11.5mm thick instead of 12mm, retaining the same 46mm lug-to-lug distance as its predecessor.
Earlier this year, Studio Underd0g acquired the Horologium workshop, where the brand’s assembly and testing take place. The bigger change on the watch itself sits inside the case. Powering the updated watch is Sellita’s SW200-2 M Power+, which succeeds the earlier SW210-1. The manually wound movement runs at 28,800vph and features hacking seconds alongside 26 jewels.
Power reserve jumps from 42 hours to 63. Pink Lem0nade and Steffany Blue return from the original lineup. Two new dial colours join them: a deep purple called Nightshade and a cherry red named Red L0lly, both replacing the earlier Full Mo0n and Midnight editions. Its signature layered dial, built from multiple sapphire discs, carries over unchanged from the first generation.
A jellyfish is still embossed on the caseback, a nod to the watch’s 100-metre water resistance. Straps come from The Strap Tailor in calf leather, 18 mm at the lug tapering to 16 mm at the buckle, fitted with quick-release spring bars and a stainless steel pin buckle. Starting at £875, the new models are on sale through the brand’s online store, with private appointments also available at The D0ghouse.
Bvlgari added two pieces to its Bvlgari Bvlgari collection this month, and the reference point is unmistakably Roman. The collection itself dates back to 1977, when Bulgari released a watch with its own name engraved twice around the bezel, a design inspired by inscriptions on ancient Roman coins. Both new watches measure 33mm and feature mother of pearl marquetry dials, each in a different summer colourway. The design draws on polychrome mosaics, the kind that once decorated the grandest houses of Ancient Rome, translated into stone inlay work across the dial surface. Marquetry at this scale demands precision from the setters, since each fragment has to sit flush against the next without disrupting the pattern. Light catches the mother of pearl differently depending on the angle, giving the mosaic pattern a shifting quality that a printed dial could never manage. The pieces are priced at £6,600.
Anoma introduced the A1 in 2024, a London-based brand built around a rounded, triangular shape inspired by a 1950s free-form table designed by Charlotte Perriand. The new A1 Each 316L stainless steel case is individually hand-chiselled by French artisan Steven Brunel, who works from a village in France’s Loire Valley and whose work has been exhibited at the Louvre. Completing each case takes around five hours.
Founder Matteo Violet Vianello developed the idea after visiting a Constantin Brancusi exhibition at the Centre Pompidou in Paris, where a collection of prehistoric tools such as arrowheads and hand axes sat alongside the sculptor’s own work. The dial carries its own handcrafted element too. Around 600 individual lines are cut by hand into a brass base to form a sunray pattern, then finished in a deep anthracite that recalls the tone of weathered stone.
The case measures 39mm by 38mm and 9.45mm thick, powered by a Sellita SW100 automatic movement with 50 metres of water resistance. Orders open on 8 July, with deliveries expected in October, and production is limited to 100 pieces. The A1 Prehistoric is priced at £2,900, excluding taxes.
The Windup Watch Fair opened in Chicago on 10 July and ran through the 12th. Worn & Wound runs the event; most of the brands filling the room are small and independent, the kind that rarely get a stand at a Geneva showcase. Past editions have brought in names like Baltic, Doxa, Formex, MAEN, Nivada and Squale, alongside newer independents still building a following.
Chicago is one stop on a wider annual circuit that has already taken the fair to Dallas in March and San Francisco in May, with further dates planned later in the year. Exhibitors range from strap makers to small-batch case manufacturers, and the format leans heavily on letting visitors try watches on rather than view them behind glass.
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