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Eddie Borgo has launched Icons, a 27-piece jewellery collection exclusive to Nordstrom, available online and in 10 stores nationwide, including the retailer’s New York City flagship. The range revisits the pyramid studs, structured links and medallion shapes that built his name in the late 2000s, more than fifteen years after he first introduced them and years after his own label’s New York operation closed.
Borgo won the CFDA Swarovski Award for Innovation in Accessory Design in 2011. The label closed its New York operation in 2017 after wholesale expansion outpaced the business, and Borgo relocated to Los Angeles with a strategic partner. He has since regained full ownership of his name.
Borgo told WWD he has watched his early designs surface again across the industry, in costume jewellery and in fine and high jewellery alike. Nordstrom, he said, became curious about why that specific body of work kept resurfacing years after it first appeared, and the partnership grew out of that question, developed over two years before reaching shelves. “It was important to the team at Nordstrom that we recapture our rightful ownership of those ideations,” he told the outlet.
Icons split cleanly into two visual lineages. One draws on Borgo’s original pyramid vocabulary: tennis bracelets, hoop and stud earrings, and graduated link necklaces built from bezel-set pyramid forms in 12-karat gold plate, several inlaid with onyx, carnelian, tiger’s eye or lapis lazuli. The Pyramid Stud Earrings, priced at $125, sit at the entry point of that group. The Inlaid Cadence Link Necklace tops it at $490, its square settings stationed with the same rotating cast of stones.
The collection includes two versions of the pyramid tennis bracelet: one in plain 12-karat gold plate at $300, the other inlaid with the same rotating stone set at $310. The Pyramid Hoop Earrings, at $260, and the Asymmetric Pyramid Lapis Lazuli Stud Earrings, at $130, extend the same vocabulary into smaller, single-stone pieces.
The second lineage looks further back to 1960s costume jewellery and shows up in the Round Medallion Necklace and Round Medallion Drop Earrings, priced at $395 and $275, both built around openwork medallion forms in labradorite and sterling silver plate, the only pieces in the collection that skip gold plating entirely. The Round Medallion Necklace suspends its pendant from a beaded strand instead of a chain link.
Nearly every piece in Icons carries a handmade or handcrafted designation, and the materials span 12-karat gold plate, sterling silver plate, brass and mirror-polished silver, set with a recurring cast of semiprecious stones that includes tiger’s eye, labradorite, Baltic amber, lapis lazuli, onyx and carnelian. The Graduated Pyramid Cadence Necklace, at $380, uses hand-carved tiger’s eye. The Graduated Pyramid Bracelet, at $320, sets amber into graduated pyramid forms. The Cadence Two-Tone Link Necklace, at $395, alternates gold and silver-plated links entirely by hand. The Cadence Link Bracelet, at $295, repeats that two-tone construction in a smaller link format. The Pyramid Charm Hoop Earrings, at $165, hang pyramid charms from a hoop instead of setting them into a fixed link, and the Graduated Pyramid Linear Drop Earrings, at $270, use hand-carved amber or labradorite in the same graduated bezel construction as the necklace and bracelet.
Pricing across these pieces runs from $125 to $490, and that range tracks closely with the materials involved. Pieces built purely from plated metal sit at the lower end. Anything incorporating hand-carved or inlaid stone work, or combining two plating finishes in a single piece, climbs toward the top of that range.
Borgo has framed Icons as an attempt to step back into designs that, in his telling, had already drifted into other people’s hands. Borgo told WWD the collection speaks to two overlapping customers: one who remembers the label from its first run and one who is drawn to the city’s creative mythology regardless of whether they ever encountered Borgo the first time around.
Icons is distributed through one of the country’s largest department store chains, built to reach past a purely nostalgic buyer. Borgo has described Nordstrom’s role as more than distribution, framing it as a platform for the work itself. He has also said he turned down other retail approaches that did not share that same approach to the business, a detail that fits a designer more selective now than he was during the label’s first run.
The partnership took two years to reach the shelf. Icons now sits in 10 Nordstrom stores and online, carrying both the pyramid-based pieces that built Borgo’s name and the medallion pieces that reach further back, priced from $125 to $490 across the pieces described here.
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