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New York Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2027 calendar rolled into its second official day on 11 September, with Michael Kors, Wiederhoeft, and Calvin Klein Collection all presenting collections in Manhattan. The week then carried into 12 September, when Conner Ives staged his first-ever New York show after building his reputation on London’s schedule.
Michael Kors chose the Museum of Modern Art’s outdoor sculpture garden for his spring show, a year after marking his brand’s 45th anniversary at Lincoln Center. He cited the sculptor Carmen Herrera and the artists Alexander Calder and Ellsworth Kelly as reference points, describing his own interest as the tension between something sculptural and something crisp. The collection held to a mostly black-and-white palette, broken up by moments of red, green, and yellow, and moved across a range of occasions: one-shoulder evening gowns, tailored two-piece suiting, and striped summer dresses built for daytime.
Accessories carried much of the collection’s personality. Bags hung from sculptural silver hoops, leather coin purses doubled as layered necklaces, and oversized costume-style rings turned up throughout the lineup. Beehive-shaped sunglasses added another sculptural note, and makeup stayed largely bare aside from an occasional red lip or a flash of neon-yellow shadow. Model Alex Consani closed the show as Harry Nilsson’s “I Guess the Lord Must Be in New York City” played through the garden, a fitting note for a designer who built decades of work around the city’s mythology.
Jackson Wiederhoeft staged his spring show inside New York Live Arts, a roughly 200-seat theatre, continuing his run of full theatrical productions. Four hooded “Statue Watchers” in draped grey gowns and opera gloves circled a large-scale bust at centre stage as guests took their seats, part of what Wiederhoeft described backstage as the opening scene of a movie. The bust itself was modelled on brand muse Danielle Mareka, and the surrounding staging built out a storyline the designer described as spanning generations of past, present, and future.
He remarked on the collection’s heavier lean toward eveningwear and bridal pieces as a deliberate business call. Those categories make up a large share of Wiederhoeft’s made-to-order work, and this season leaned into them more directly than usual. The clothes moved through petal-appliqué corsets paired with fluid slip skirts before shifting into a dedicated bridal stretch. A white off-the-shoulder floor-length gown opened that chapter, followed by brocade ballgowns with pleated, corseted bodices and lace bolero sleeves, and closing on a tulle tutu minidress. Wiederhoeft called this season’s output more hyperfeminine and girlier than his usual output, a shift he framed as intentional.
Veronica Leoni staged her latest Calvin Klein Collection show at Terminal Warehouse, continuing the exploration of what she has called American Minimalism since taking over the line. She described the season’s guiding idea as a discipline of removal, stripping away anything that doesn’t carry the work until only the necessary elements remain. Leoni came to Calvin Klein after stints at Jil Sander, Celine, Moncler, and The Row, a background she has repeatedly said shapes how she edits down a collection.
Saturday brought Conner Ives to the Official New York schedule for the first time, a shift for a designer who built his name showing London. A New Yorker trained at Central Saint Martins, Ives is often mistaken for British given his London base, and this season played directly into that mix-up.
He teamed up with Gieves & Hawkes, the storied Savile Row house, on a pair of suits, a first foray into tailoring this formal for his label, then undercut their polish with styling that looked deliberately undone, as though thrown on in a hurry. Elsewhere, the collection pulled together flamenco fringe and chinoiserie floral prints. Models including Iris Law and Lila Moss walked the collection, the latter in a fur-trimmed Art Deco robe recalling a look Troye Sivan wore in a recent music video.
Friday’s calendar also carried Amir Taghi, Lafayette 148, Jane Wade, Christian Cowan, Monse, Kim Shui, Simkhai, Eckhaus Latta, and Rio, with Saturday adding Nardos, Altuzarra, Vettese, 7 For All Mankind, Anna Sui, Tibi, Ashlyn, Prabal Gurung, Khaite, threeASFOUR, Elena Velez, alongside a presentation from KidSuper.
Sunday’s lineup ran through Ossou, Area, Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen, COS, Sandy Liang, Magda Butrym, Campillo, Sergio Hudson, Brandon Maxwell, Todd Snyder, Grace Ling, and Zaldy. Monday continues with Aisling Camps, Ulla Johnson, Norma Kamali, Fforme, Lii, Zankov’s own label, Private Policy, Diotima, Bibhu Mohapatra, Carolina Herrera, Luar, and LaQuan Smith. New York Fashion Week closes out Tuesday with Kozaburo, Heirlome, Andrew Kwon, Collina Strada, Frederick Anderson, Sabyasachi, and Thom Browne.
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