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New York Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2027 season opened this week, with Ralph Lauren, Coach, Cult Gaia, J.Press, Libertine, and Rachel Comey all showing off-schedule on 9 September. The Council of Fashion Designers of America’s official calendar took over on 10 September, led by Henry Zankov’s debut as artistic director of Diane von Furstenberg. Proenza Schouler, Bad Binch TongTong, Tommy Hilfiger, Alice + Olivia, Kallmeyer, Christian Siriano, Tory Burch, and Public School New York followed the same day.
Every collection shown this week falls under CFDA’s first outright ban on animal fur, a rule that brings New York in line with fur restrictions already in place in London, Copenhagen, and Berlin.
Ralph Lauren opened the unofficial run on shows Wednesday afternoon at the Jack Shainman Gallery in downtown Manhattan. The collection stayed within his familiar navy and white, warmed by gold, beige, and dusty rose. It pushed further into romance and sensuality than his recent output, reworking Edwardian waistcoats and Fortuny-style gowns into shapes with a younger edge. A cotton jacquard corset shirt tied at the back sat over slightly low-slung white trousers with side buttons running from mid-calf to hem; a gold overpainted wrap tank pulled the silhouette further from Lauren’s usual ease. The evening brought a wrap dress built from a single seam alongside a navy sequined dress that dissolved into fringe over trousers. Viola Davis, Ariana DeBose, Cynthia Erivo, Rachel Brosnahan, and Elizabeth Debicki sat front row.
Stuart Vevers marked Coach’s 85th anniversary at Pier 36 that same evening. Leather, the house’s oldest material signature, appeared distressed and loveworn, with seams left exposed as part of the design. Slim, straight tailoring, tuxedos, and Western boots sat alongside oversized skater-style suits. Metallic leather and sequined slips with long clock-pendant necklaces on most models nodded to the 85 years the house has logged.
Johnson Hartig staged Libertine’s anniversary show at the National Arts Club, titled “Out of the Chaos and Into the Garden.” A sports jersey and shorts with the number 25 in red sequins, a coat embroidered with boxwood topiaries in Versailles-style boxes had threadwork soft enough to mimic moss, and a heavier topper drew its Tree of Life motif from a historic carpet. Martha Stewart, Cynthia Rowley, and Lena Hall attended the show.
Rachel Comey marked the same milestone with a collection built around Rosalyn Drexler, the multi-hyphenate who worked as a painter, playwright, nightclub singer, and professional wrestler, among other things. Cracked surfaces migrated onto leather and satin, wrestling championship belts informed coin paillettes, and Drexler’s canvases supplied a palette of cobalt, green, and lilac. A textured green column dress and an icy blue dress that fell over flat white shoes anchored the eveningwear; daywear mixed an oversized cotton T-shirt with silk and turquoise shorts edged in shimmer with an easy cream knit.
Adam Lippes marked 20 years since launching his own label with a show inside his Fifth Avenue home. The anniversary gave the former Oscar de la Renta design-studio veteran a reason to revisit the preppy instincts of his first collection. His version stayed understated: a waterproof silk bomber that unzips to reveal a tonal plaid lining, boyfriend jackets in silk-and-linen Loro Piana tweed, and red silk taffeta running shorts. A net slip dress embellished with micro Swarovski crystals and a high-necked jacket tied in a bow over white balloon pants closed out the eveningwear.
The CFDA’s official schedule began Thursday morning with Henry Zankov’s collection staged on the High Line. Zankov served as the house’s design director of knitwear from 2014 to 2018 before launching his own label in 2020, then returned last autumn to design a capsule that sold well at Bergdorf Goodman. That reception led chief executive Graziano de Boni to offer him the newly created artistic director role, announced in May, and he continues to run his own label. The collection leaned on archival DVF prints and patterns reworked in new colours, including a green checked wrap dress and a colour-blocked maxi dress as Zankov’s own takes on the house’s signature silhouette.
An anamorphic leopard-print trench and a colour-blocked baby blue and oxblood wrap jacket, while a raspberry red wool suit, elongated and lightly constructed, merged Von Furstenberg’s legacy with Zankov’s aesthetic. Exposed shoulders and plunging necklines ran throughout, though Zankov described the collection’s seduction as coming from movement and body language, not exposure alone.
At the former Rubin Museum, Rachel Scott presented her second collection for Proenza Schouler, working with a looser hand than her restrained fall debut. Sharp shoulders gave way to curving hips, with cowls, flanges and pleats creating space around the body instead of following its line closely. A chrome-yellow pointelle cardigan swelled from the waist, and a seafoam strapless dress broke into articulated flounces below the torso. A tiger motif recurred throughout, achieved through hand knitting, woven intarsia, pleating and hand tufting. A rose motif started as cyanotypes made from real flowers on a New York rooftop before being worked into fabric, including a version on organza. Scott and Reed Krakoff also revived the house’s PS1 bag as the PS1 Walker, paring back its 2000s-era hardware and adding hand-tacked stitching, named for the brand’s original Walker Street Studio.
Tommy Hilfiger staged his return to the runway at The Plaza Hotel, where he lived for a decade, reworking archival pieces from his 1990s heyday with looser, more exaggerated proportions. Denim and varsity jackets were shrunken, shorts turned into cropped, extra-baggy micro versions for both genders, and polos ballooned into oversized shapes. Rugby shirts were remade in washed silk, and his signature sailing jackets returned in bright yellow and red, mixing suede, leather, and technical waterproof fabric. Accessories included oversized totes, patchwork, tartan bucket hats, and a reissued ‘90s skater sneaker. Gigi Hadid opened the show in a beige blazer and oversized red trousers; Romeo Beckham closed it in a tartan crop jacket and Bermuda shorts, and Slayyyter performed live afterward for a front row including Kate Moss, Camila Cabello, Karl-Anthony Towns, and Jordyn Woods.
Tory Burch staged the show in Noguchi’s Sunken Garden below a downtown plaza, its Ryōan-ji-inspired stone-and-water setting matching the collection’s colourful, embellished mood. She framed the collection in her notes around “the joy of getting dressed.” A coat paired with a feather scarf led on texture; bags and shoes stayed a strength with a shopper version of the Lee Radziwill handbag and woven-leather kitten-heel slingbacks, and the show closed on a plain black coat. Amanda Seyfried, Ravyn Lenae, Gong Hyo-jin, and Sandra Ng attended.
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