No products in the cart.
Milan Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2027 season opened on Tuesday, 22 September, with Prada taking the first runway slot at Fondazione Prada, its usual venue, in a shift from its customary midweek scheduling.
Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor and Diesel followed later in the day, with Diesel’s show marking creative director Glenn Martens’ final collection for the brand. In the evening, Vogue staged the fifth edition of Vogue World inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, drawing a wide mix of models, musicians, and actors to close out the day.
Every look in Prada’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection was built around a skirt. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons described the approach as “the skirt as object,” framing the collection as “an interrogation of this single, universal garment, through protean variation.” You could find skirts in all forms, from midis to minis, in leather, sheer organza, and even pleated. Some with high slits and others paired with distressed leather jackets with floral-printed hemlines.
The bra top was the collection’s second constant, appearing as plain bandeaus in some looks and elaborate, harness-like constructions in others. The opening look paired a black lace bra top with a tomato-red skirt with a high slit, a combination that recurred throughout the show in different colours and fabrications.
Elsewhere, heavy wool skirts featured textural pleats layered with crystals, paillettes, rosettes, and floral-shaped sequins, and several were finished with sheer organza layers and bows.
Sculptural leather dresses appeared in painter’s white and chartreuse. Bubblegum pink pleats added a softer note, while neon green and lemon meringue tones ran through the later looks. 1960s-inspired ditsy florals, long associated with Miuccia Prada’s design language, also took the stage.
Uma Thurman sat with her daughter, actor Maya Hawke, joined by her Stranger Things co-star Sadie Sink. Naomi Watts and Michelle Williams were seated nearby. Alexa Chung and Nara Smith arrived from London, where both attended Burberry’s show the night before. Dwyane Wade and Gabrielle Union sat alongside artist Jeff Koons and director Luca Guadagnino.
The show followed the unveiling of Prada’s new flagship inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, where the label was founded in 1913, and the release of the first-half 2026 results that beat expectations despite margin pressure tied to the integration of Versace.
Dhruv Kapoor’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection centred on what the designer described as the beauty of decay, built around the idea that worn and weathered materials can give way to something new. Kapoor said he wanted to explore how time and nature leave their mark on the body, the clothes and memory, and the collection carried his signature fabric mash-ups throughout the lineup.
The same fabric mash-up carried into a capsule collection with Puma and the Royal Challengers Bengaluru cricket team, built from old-school track jackets made with Puma deadstock and limited to 24 pieces per style. The jackets reworked cricket and performance wear codes into more crafted, handworked pieces, combining technical construction with handcrafted detail and returning to the street-savvy aesthetic that marked Kapoor’s early collections.
Kapoor founded his label in 2013 and trained at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in New Delhi and Istituto Marangoni in Milan, with a formative stint at Etro.
Diesel’s Spring/Summer 2027 show marked Glenn Martens’ final collection as creative director, ending a five-year tenure that reshaped the brand. Denim remained the collection’s core material, distressed through ripped finishes and unusual washes, pushed further by exaggerated construction.
Knitwear was engineered to appear as though it were disintegrating into denim and leather, using trompe l’oeil techniques to create the illusion of shearling and leather from flat fabric. Shorts grew shorter throughout the show, and laser-cut T-shirts were designed to look torn apart, paired with smudged lipstick.
The show was staged under red lighting, with performers seated in the bleachers, building the atmosphere as the collection progressed. Ella Snyder wore the finale look. Martens remains at parent company OTB as creative director of Maison Margiela, having held both roles for the past eighteen months.
Vogue staged the fifth edition of Vogue World inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II on Tuesday evening, the event’s first appearance in Italy following previous editions in New York, London, and Paris. Produced by Marco Balich, the show centred on the theme “Where the Future Is Made by the Hand” and was structured across several themed acts. Model Gigi Hadid opened the show in a hand-crafted Valentino patchwork gown, and J Balvin and Kpop Demon Hunters star EJAE followed in the show’s early sequence.
The rest of Milan’s Spring/Summer 2027 calendar runs through 28 September. Maria Grazia Chiuri presents her second collection for Fendi on 23 September. Demna shows his second collection for Gucci on 25 September, the same day Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo debut as co-creative directors of Moschino.
Stay inspired with exclusive brand features, luxury insights, and the latest in fine fashion and beauty — directly in your inbox.
