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The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana released a provisional schedule for Milan Fashion Week Women’s Spring/Summer 2027 on Thursday, confirming Prada as the week’s opening show and adding four debutant labels to a lineup of sixty runway shows.
The women’s collections run in Milan from September 22 to 28, staged across theatres and repurposed industrial spaces around the Quadrilatero della Moda, with more than 160 brands appearing on the official calendar once presentations and appointment-only showings are counted alongside the runway shows themselves.
Milan picks up the baton from New York, where the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) released its preliminary Spring 2027 Fashion Week schedule, running from September 10 to 15. That New York week opens with Henry Zankov’s debut as artistic director of Diane von Furstenberg and closes with Thom Browne, and the calendar has already logged its own list of new names, including Conner Ives, Magda Butrym, and CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists Bad Binch TongTong and Milamore.
Prada will stage its runway at 2 pm CET on September 22, taking the week’s opening position after years of showing later in the calendar on Thursdays. The house will be followed that day by Diesel and by Venerdì Pomeriggio, the new label from Vivetta Ponti.
Established houses fill out the rest of the week alongside the four debutants below. Jil Sander is showing Simone Bellotti’s collection the day after Prada, and Fendi follows with Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second ready-to-wear line for the house. Moschino’s new co-creative directors, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, will also present their debut during the week.
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida met while studying at CITEX fashion school in Portugal, then gained industry experience separately in London, Marques at Vivienne Westwood, Almeida at Preen, before reuniting on the MA course at Central Saint Martins, where they decided to launch a label together. They founded Marques’Almeida in London in 2011, building a reputation on frayed, reconstructed denim that landed on Rihanna and Beyoncé and won them the LVMH Prize for Young Designers in 2015.
Their most recent London outing, for Spring 2026, moved away from the label’s signature raw denim toward pastel florals and lighter fabrics. Almeida described the shift as wanting “a different kind of emotion than we tend to use,” a departure from the distressed, hard-edged silhouettes that built the brand’s name over the past decade.
Miguel Vieira joins alongside Marques’Almeida as the other Portuguese house on the debut list. The designer’s namesake label began in Portugal in 1988 as a womenswear collection; a menswear line followed within the year, and the business has since branched out into shoes, bags, eyewear and other categories. His work has become known for a recurring black-and-white palette and modern classic tailoring, and while his collections have appeared at Milan trade events and off-calendar showings in past seasons, this marks his debut on CNMI’s official schedule specifically.
Victor Hart, who works under the label Victor-Hart, was born in Ghana and now designs out of Bologna, building a brand around hybrid workwear cut largely from deadstock denim and shaped by Ghanaian colour and atmosphere layered onto Italian construction. He was named a recipient of the Camera Moda Fashion Trust’s 2024 grant, chosen specifically by Max&Co for its Design for Change award, which came with 20,000 euros and a collaborative project with the brand’s in-house design team. That grant track record puts him in the company of past recipients Andreādamo and Setchu, both of whom have gone on to regular slots on the Milan runway calendar.
Siblings Neithan and Anga Ruiz founded Neithan Herbert in 2021, running the label out of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, where each piece is made locally in collaboration with artisan communities. Neithan trained at the Istituto Europeo di Design in Milan before returning to Mexico to launch the brand, and the siblings’ work draws heavily on their mother’s Indigenous Otavalo heritage from Ecuador, incorporating traditional textile techniques into a ready-to-wear line the brand describes as sitting between couture and ready-to-wear.
N.21 and GCDS are both missing from the schedule as released, with no confirmation yet on whether either brand will appear later or sit the season out entirely. Ferrari is skipping Milan outright. The marque will present its spring 2027 collection in New York instead, timed to the opening of its new flagship store there.
Prada Group and Versace announced Pieter Mulier’s appointment as chief creative officer on February 5, effective July 1, succeeding Dario Vitale, who left after a single collection in December. Mulier’s debut for Versace isn’t expected until next year, leaving the house without a collection to show this September.
CNMI is filling the resulting gap in the calendar with a gala dinner at Palazzo Reale on September 23, the second day of the week, timed to the opening of Dalí e la Moda, an exhibition developed in collaboration with the Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation. The chamber is also forgoing its usual CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards this season; the ceremony evolves into the CNMI Creative and Sustainable Fashion Awards starting next year, staying at Teatro alla Scala during fashion week in September 2027.
The complete timetable, including presentation slots, appointments and satellite events, will be released on September 8, when CNMI publishes the final schedule ahead of fashion month.
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