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Paris Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 opens today and runs through Sunday, June 28, with six days of menswear shows and presentations spread across the French capital. The runway count is up from last season, with more designers opting for shows over presentations this time around. The week feels less predictable than it has in a few seasons, partly because of who is back on the calendar, partly because of who is stepping into a new role for the first time.
A few things make this particular edition stand out. Saint Laurent is showing during Men’s Fashion Week again after a stretch of staging its menswear shows during Couture Week instead. Three designers are presenting their first collections in new houses. And the World Cup is running at the same time, which tends to find its way into the clothes, whether anyone plans for it or not.
Anthony Vaccarello had been taking Saint Laurent’s menswear to Couture Week for a while, so the decision to bring it back to the men’s schedule is being noticed. Kering CEO Luca de Meo confirmed at the company’s recent Capital Markets Day that Saint Laurent has serious ambitions for its menswear business in the years ahead, with targets that represent a significant step up from where it currently sits. A return to the dedicated men’s calendar is consistent with that direction.
Louis Vuitton under Pharrell Williams will close out opening night. Every show Williams has staged at the house since taking the role has operated at a scale that sits slightly outside the normal fashion week frame, and it’s expected to follow the same pattern today. The venue was not announced in advance, which has become a reliable characteristic of how he approaches these evenings.
Anderson showed his SS26 debut at Hôtel des Invalides in June 2025, returned for AW26 in January, and Wednesday, June 24, is the third. By the third season, the creative argument becomes readable as something sustained rather than still forming, which puts a different kind of pressure on Wednesday morning than his first two shows carried. His Cruise 2027 show at LACMA ran before this week, which adds another thread into what Wednesday might resolve or extend.
Three of the week’s most-watched shows belong to designers presenting their first collections in their current roles. At Celine, Michael Rider steps onto a runway for the first time since joining the house, having spent his first two seasons working through presentation formats instead. His approach has centred on what he calls “character over costume,” built around considered pieces and quality materials rather than directional looks. His show closes the week on Sunday, June 28, meaning his debut and the season’s final moment land together.
At Givenchy, Sarah Burton presents her first menswear collection since joining the house. The SS27 Givenchy offering takes a presentation format rather than a full runway show, which gives her space to set out a direction without the weight of a catwalk debut in her first menswear season. Burton spent more than a decade at Alexander McQueen before leaving, and her understanding of how a significant fashion house operates is not in question. What her menswear vision looks like at Givenchy is.
Grace Wales Bonner debuts for Hermès, and this is the one that has generated the most conversation ahead of the week. She has built her own label around music, literary reference, and diasporic identity, working at a pace and scale that has always felt deliberate. Hermès is a house built around leather goods, equestrian heritage, and craft carried across generations. How those two sensibilities sit together is the genuine unknown of this week.
2025 LVMH Prize winner Soshi Otsuki makes his Paris Fashion Week debut this season, bringing his award-winning slouchy suits to the schedule. Rick Owens, Lemaire, Dries Van Noten, Willy Chavarria, and Kiko Kostadinov fill out the rest of the calendar across the remaining days.
Rather than a single runway moment, Kenzo is running La Fête de Kenzo as a week-long series of events. The programme spans several locations around the Place des Victoires, a neighbourhood with particular significance for the house, marking half a century since Kenzo Takada established his presence there.
France plays Norway on June 26, right in the middle of fashion week. Football references are expected to run through some of the collections this week, and L’Oréal Men Expert is running a watch party at Parc des Princes the same evening. Both things happening in the same city at the same time give the week a different kind of energy than fashion week usually carries on its own.
Wales Bonner at Hermès and Rider at Celine are both still to come. The week has a lot left in it.
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